WERQ!: February 2009

Showing newest 24 of 75 posts from February 2009. Show older posts

2.28.2009

Do You Know?

Live in Las Vegas at Caesars Palace, 09.1979

FUCK RENT...

Christian Lacroix asymmetric silk dress, $3,680.00

"Im A WINNER ba-by...and you're a LOSER!" Probably one of the most iconic movies in the history of fashion, 1975's Mahogony remains a muse and point of trend reference year after year. I was lucky enough to catch a big-screen showing of the classic this past week [excuse me while I get off my cloud] that had me longing for ROMA!

Granted the film is probably not the best cinematically speaking...but visually one would have to be blind not to recognize the granduer that is Diana Ross. Do yourself a favor see this movie.

2.21.2009

Employee Bulletin

im recovering from Fashion Week...ill be back on Monday! Promise...

2.18.2009

Werqing Review: SPURR F. 2009

SPURR successfully produced a menswear collection that was modern yet undeniably classic; edgy yet clean. Inspired by Stanley Kubrick’s 1968 film “2001: A Space Odyssey,” Designer Simon Spurr’s presentation included a well styled mix of textured cotton suits, static tweeds and vibrant colored knits and outerwear. Not quite a literal interpretation of its cinematic muse (no apes or astronauts in sight) the base palette of black, grey, and white was punctuated with splashes of raspberry, yellow and orange that could easily be reminiscent of the starting atmospheric stills from the “Dawning of Man” segment in the film. On a less intense symbolic interpretation the continued “evolution” of this label is definitely worth further exploration this upcoming fall and beyond. ---J. Dwayne Joseph
J's Pick: Tweed cigarette pants and Fitted Odyssey down jacket

Werqing Review: Telfar F. 2009

St. Marks Episcopal in New York’s east village served as the location and backdrop to the Fall/Winter 2009 collection by underground avant guarde favorite, Telfar. The twelve look show was a capsule of men’s and women’s wear that was part minimal and part utility. While there were definite highlights (including a black and white shirt-trouser combination---not to mention the jewelry provided by Jewess) some of the garments lacked precision. The key to well executed utilitarian (and military) inspired clothing is impeccable tailoring. While not completely absent from all of the looks shown, simple polish and attention to fit would have proved even more sartorially successful. ---J. Dwayne Joseph

Werqing Review: Andy & Debb F. 2009

Korean-born design duo Seokwon “Andy” Kim and Wonjeong “Debbie” Yoon’s Fall 2009 collection for their line Andy & Debb was a buyer’s dream world of great sportswear that will undoubtedly attract consumer dollars.

Inspired by the symmetry and delicate nature of the butterfly; petal ruffles, soft draping and subtle wing like details on blazers and dresses were just enough for reference.

The Pratt Institute graduates managed to create a feminine variety of garments set in a dark and earth-toned color palette of khaki, green, black, grey and burgundy. The collection was high on practicality and equal on attention-grabbing potential.

Werqing Review: Georges Chakra

Edition: Georges Chakra marked the couture designer’s venture into the world of ready-to-wear. While creating a more “accessible” line of clothing, the collection did not stray far from Chakra’s couture formula. The 40 looks shown---all of which were best suited for evening---included floor length gowns, cocktail dresses, blouses and slim trousers done In a range of taffeta, tulle, organza and lamé. The apparent new season trend of darker coloration was followed, but the fabrications were glossy, and some were adorned with multi-colored appliqués and shown alongside pieces in fuchsia, green and pink ombre. Admittedly, it would have been nice to see some possible daytime options for variation, but alas one can not fault Chakra for staying in his world of extreme luxury. If Obama’s stimulus package is the successful catalyst for economic turnaround, the cap-sleeved glossy black dress might be worth a price request. Recession be damned! ---J. Dwayne Joseph.

Werqing Review: Vena Cava F.W 2009

Vena Cava’s Fall 2009 collection entitled “Crystalarium” saw designers Sophie Buhai and Lisa Mayock’s introduction---and addition---of surprising details to classic staples. Presented atop a Marisa Tesauro triangular platform filled with the shattered remnants of 30,000 recycled cds, the idea of bedazzle and sparkle was glaringly apparent.

Inspired by Mayock’s gem-hunting neighbor in the 80’s, the dresses, skirts, outerwear and shoes (specially designed by Via Spiga) were taken up a notch by exposed zippers, metallic fringe and holographic sequins. The CFDA/Vogue Fashion Fund recognized design duo did not disappoint, and will be an undoubted hit once on the racks this Fall. ---J. Dwayne Joseph

J's Pick: Silver foil print rayon cardigan

Werqing Review: Abaete F. 2009

Designer Laura Poretzky served viewers a lesson in French History, complete with the music of live strings. Taking style cues from Les Incroyables (a group of rebellious dandies circa the French Revolution) the collection showcased a varied mix of knits, smart skirts, blazers and the Abaete specialty: dresses! The tasteful usage of chain belts and crest pins added hints of aristocracy and military-esque regalia to twill suiting, a grey wool swing coat and even the footwear (of which is available at Payless Shoe Source). Nods to vintage wear were marked by a palette of tarnished colors, but the clothing was more modern than dusty. Much like Poretzky’s French muses, this buyer friendly collection will undoubtedly bring a sense of playfulness and joie de vivre to the contemporary fashion landscape this Fall. ---J. Dwayne Joseph

Werqing Review: Chadwick Bell

It seems Luis Buñuel's 1967 film “Belle de Jour” has made its way into the mind of yet another designer: Chadwick Bell. The California-native presented a 22 look collection that was impeccably polished and luxe (try a mink trimmed alligator jacket). Not withstanding the era of Bell's inspiration, the garments were classics infused with extreme levels of modernity and undeniable edge.

The iconic cinematic gem, which starred Catherine Deneuve, delves into the masochistic bondage fantasies of a housewife turned prostitute. The strategic placements of leather against chiffon, and draping that was reminiscent of harnesses created a subtle reference of restraint.

Despite the dark and serious tone of the show, elegance reigned supreme. This presentation proved that Chadwick Bell is definitely on the cusp of greatness.

Runway Infamy: Gaultier F.W 93/94

Thank God for Gaultier! His infamous Jewish Collection from Fall 93/94 was controversial when it hit, but does it still strike a chord now? And do you think the uproar at the time was neccessary?

Take A Second...

"the thing i'm most interested in is continuity. i've always worked hard not being today's flavor."

-Paul Smith

2.14.2009

Employee Bulletin

I'M @ THE SHOWS...Friday-Sunday show reviews will be posted on 2.16.09. Highlights of the week so far: 1. New object of my intrigue: Luigi Tadini 2. Chadwick Bell Presentation 3. Took a first-date to Edition: Georges Chakra (tacky but sweet) 4. Anna Wintour staring at me @ Vena Cava 5. the calories burned from me running around this retched city