1. Beware of the Sales Guy: He’ll tell you whatever you want to hear—that everything looks great on you, that the store’s tailor can fix any suit.You need to know as much as possible about how a suit should fit and what kind of suit you’re looking for before you walk through the door.2. Know why you’re buying a suit: Are you hunting for a suit that you’re going to wear to the office once or more a week? (If so, keep it dark and classic.) Or are you looking for a suit you’ll wear a few times a year to weddings and funerals? (Black or navy is a safe bet.) Is it a suit you’ll wear to job interviews? (If so, you want to be well dressed but not better dressed than the guy interviewing you, so nothing too pricey.) Or is it the kind you’d wear with sneakers and a T-shirt, or wear just the jacket with a pair of jeans?
3. Start at a department store: Head to a store like Barneys or Saks or Bloomingdale’s. You’ll be able to view a variety of brands instead of just one.
4. Know your size: The most crucial element of a suit is its fit, and not many sales guys understand how a suit should fit or, more specifically, how you want yours to fit.
Shoulders: the suit’s shoulders should hug yours; shoulder pads should not protrude beyond your own shoulders. If you stand sideways against a wall and the shoulder pad touches the wall before your arm does, the suit is too big.
Chest: You should be able to easily button the jacket without it straining. Conversely, there shouldn’t be too much space between the button and your chest—no more than a fist’s worth.
Length: When your arms are hanging straight down, you should be able to cup your fingers under the sides of your suit jacket. However, these days, with shorter suits in style, some jackets reach only about an inch beyond the cuff of your suit sleeve.
5. Start thinking about the number of buttons
This will determine a good deal about the cut and fit (NO MORE THAN 3 BUTTONS!)
6. Think about the vents on the back of the suit jacket…
• A center vent is all-purpose; it is both modern and traditional. You can’t go wrong.
• Side vents (left) are more European; a bit more suave.
• A ventless jacket is just plain wrong. It says you think it’s still 1986.
7. …and the type of lapel
• Notch lapel- what you see on most business suits—is the standard. You’re always safe with a notch lapel.
• Peak lapel-is more old-school and elegant. And now it’s enjoying a comeback with the high-fashion crowd.
8. Know what a tailor can—and can’t—do for you: Here are the areas you should direct your tailor’s attention to:
• Shoulders: If your suit doesn’t fit in the shoulders, it’s not going to fit anywhere else. Salesmen will tell you they can reduce or reshape the shoulder pads—NOT TRUE.
• Pants: If the pants are an inch or so too tight or too large in the waist, a tailor can usually fix them.
• Jacket: A tailor usually will need to alter the length of the sleeves. Insist that you’d like a quarter inch of shirt cuff to show. The sides of a jacket often need tapering so they contour to your torso. And check out the collar: Many times there is a roll in the back of the suit jacket, up near your neck.---By Adam Rapoport;